Winter Skin Survival Guide!
Winter throws a bit of a wrench into your skin care regimen (check out my last post for why), especially if you maintain your glow with a retinoid (tretinoin, Retin-A, Tazorac) or other exfoliating acids, like glycolic or salicylic acid. I always have a period of a few weeks during fall when I’m adjusting my skin care routine to get to a sweet spot where I’m no longer walking around with a goatee made of dry skin, a.k.a. a dry skin beard. Here’s a run down of some suggested adjustments to your face routine you might want to adopt during the dry season.
I recommend starting with an adjustment to the frequency with which you are using your retinoid. If you are doing it every night, but now are experiencing more dryness around the nose and mouth, try doing it every other night. Also, avoid applying it right around your nose and mouth, these areas are the most likely to peel. During the fall, I will sometimes inadvertently see patients all day with dry skin peeling off around my mouth… not a cute look (although it does show that I practice what I preach and use my retinoid).
Another hack that works to reduce irritation is applying your thick moisturizer FIRST, then putting your retinoid on top of that. It reduces how much retinoid gets absorbed, which will lessen any subsequent dryness or irritation. I also recommend short contact therapy, meaning applying the retinoid for 5-10 minutes, rinsing it off, then applying your moisturizer as usual.
Reenactment of me and my dry skin beard. (Photo: Kimmy Williams via Unsplash)
If those adjustments are still not cutting it, switch to a less potent retinoid, like Differin, or ditch the retinoid all together for a more gentle product, like a low concentration lactic acid, like The Ordinary’s 5% Lactic Acid or their 10% Azaleic Acid Suspension (which I love).
Aside from adjusting your retinoid game, using a thicker moisturizer during these low humidity months is KEY. I spent weeks one winter on the hunt for a moisturizer that kept my skin moist, supple and not cracked for an entire day. I tried the thickest creams I could find at Sephora, invested in Kiehl’s Rosa Arctica (which is a fave of many, guessing by its “out of stock” status on the website), and finally settled back on my good ol’ Cetaphil cream. It just does the best job, and although I am a sucker for luxurious packaging, I could not justify the high price tags of some of these creams. Another thick, non-comedogenic (non-acne forming) cream that I love is the Avene Skin Recovery Cream.
Pro tip: Don’t be afraid to use Vaseline or other petrolatum-based products on areas that feel extremely chapped (especially your poor nose during a cold).
Dry and peeling lips are also a common complaint and you have to protect that delicate skin. Licking your lips will only make it worse (it’s actually called “lip lickers cheilitis” ). I recommend using an ointment-based product, like Vaseline or Aquaphor, and applying obsessively every 15 or 20 minutes. Keep those babies greasy!
Note: Some of you may be thinking, aren’t petrolatum-based products bad for you? No, they are not. Petrolatum has been unjustifiably maligned and is a safe and effective skin protectant. Purified white petrolatum, USP, has no data to show it is a carcinogen. Check out this well-written article out for more information.
Reevaluate what you use in the winter and get rid of products that may dry you out even more.
Still dry? Check out the products you use on a regular basis and get rid of anything that may be stripping your skin of much-needed moisture.
Toners, especially ones that contain alcohol (although most don’t contain alcohol these days) and witch hazel are drying. I think a toner is an unnecessary step in your skin care regimen anyways and don’t recommend it unless you are EXTREMELY oily.
Another thing I think you should ditch in winter, although maybe permanently, are clay masks. They are meant to pull the oil from your skin and are quite drying. I’m not a mask fan, in general, and will get into why I don’t think clay masks accomplish anything in the long term for your skin in a later post.
Gel-based products, especially moisturizers, generally have a high water content and may contain drying alcohols. They won’t do a great job locking in moisture and protecting your skin from the dry winter air. You might find that it feels good initially, but your skin will start feeling dry after an hour or so.
Finally, my last tip is to be kind to your skin. It definitely needs a little more love in the winter and less aggressive glow-getting tactics. Minimize exfoliating and scrubbing and lean on using gentle chemical exfoliants. If the skin barrier and pH get too out of wack, your skin will not be happy.
I hope these tips will help you get through this winter season with gorgeous, happy skin. Leave a comment if you have any other tricks you love. The next installment will be a guide on dealing with winter hand eczema, so stay tuned!